I'm a hardcore over-packer. For
the most part, my travel is by car, so I'm inclined to just load up
everything I might need. Clothes for every weather event and every
occasion. Shoes to match every outfit. All my full-size toiletries,
like shampoo and soap and such. I pack coolers of food and sodas, bags
of snacks, and everything you might want, ever, to eat at a picnic. I
mean, why not? Where I'm going has sheets and pillows and towels?
Well, I can bring my own, just in case we are struck by some unexpected
bedding and towel emergency. After all, I can just pile it all in the
car, and I don't even have to unpack it if I don't need it. And forget
luggage. Paper bags, plastic bags, or even just random items in the
back seat. It all comes with
me.
So when Bill suggested we take a
motorcycle vacation, honestly, one of my biggest worries was how to pack
four days of my life into two small saddlebags. I had just watched
"Long Way Down," where Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman travel all
through Africa on motorcycles, and I saw how they packed tents, clothes,
and all their supplies on their bikes. (And in three accompanying
SUVs, but let's not focus on that.) "I can do this!" I told myself with
no conviction whatsoever. And sure enough, I procrastinated like any
anxious person doomed to failure does. But Tuesday night came, and
there was no turning back. I took out four Ziplock freezer bags and
told myself what didn't fit in them, didn't come. Aye carrumba!! But I
managed to squeeze in seven days' worth of clothes (yes, for a four-day
trip, I know, I KNOW), but I even included jammies and swimwear. I
squished the
air out of the bags before I zipped them up, and lo and behold, I
looked like a super-packer!!
So I proudly
loaded the saddle bags up Tuesday night, squeezed in a few more empty
ziplocks for wet clothes and dirty clothes, and went to bed excited for
the trip the next day. Yay motorcycles! Yay Ewan McGregor!
Until
about 3 a.m. when the sound of a horrific downpour woke me to find Bill
checking the radar and weather report (modern technology is AMAZING) on
his phone, and oopsy. Rain ALL weekend ALL over our route. We had
originally told ourselves we would take the car if faced with bad
weather, but come ON, I'd packed in Ziplock bags! We couldn't turn back
now!
So after an anxious and fitful night's
sleep, we awoke to the rain still pouring down steadily, gathered up the
animals for feeding time, showered, and slowly donned our gear and
waterproofed
ourselves. I'm proud of us that we never for a second considered the
car, although I whined about the rain gear. It's just so uncomfortable
and ugly. Not at all the motorcycle babe look I'm going for.
And
off we went, stopping of course for coffee and by about 8:15, we were
sitting in rush-hour traffic on 54 heading to Graham in the rain.
Wait. What? Oh right, it's Wednesday!! So, yes, rush hour traffic,
right past both our offices, and then off! on country roads to Graham,
then to 87 north through Burlington, and by now we'd been on the road
like an hour or more, our tummies rumblin, and jeans damply stuck to my
legs. The rain gear worked fine, but North Carolina this time of year
is somewhat like the inside of a clothes dryer, and while rain gear
keeps rain out, it also keeps sweat IN. So, this is all to tell you
that we stopped at the West Webb Curb Market, which looks like a
hole-in-the-wall convenience store, but when you step inside is an
enormous general store with a crotchety old lady who will scramble you
up an egg, fry some bacon, and curmudgeoningly throw it on white toast
for you. The rest of the folks there were very sweet, keep their
bathroom clean, and wished us safe journey on our way out. The sun
was making an occasional appearance by now, and one thing I realized
was that even in the rain, I was having a great time. I love love love
the bike (you may have gleaned that from previous posts), and the roads
of North Carolina are just exquisite. Even in the rain.
We
swooshed on for several more hours, and eventually the rain dissipated,
and we rolled north to nearly-Virginia, and then cut west, south, west,
north, and so on, following a route carefully construed to see as much
as possible and end up in Mount Airy for lunch. The green fields, the
pines, the
jungle-like stretches where huge and lush greenery encroaches on the
shoulders and shades the pavement, the corn fields, the tobacco fields,
and the endless supply of churches all glide past, the sound of the wind
drowning out most thoughts, and the bike responding like it's part
of you. This, this could go on forever and be wonderful.
And
then we made it to 89 North toward Mount Airy. The curves on this road
fold tightly in on one another, and the grading creates bowl-shaped
loops all intertwining to give you the sense of being the ball in the
old game Mousetrap, that slid and rolled and swooshed through the
track. The trees leaned over the road and we were basically in a jungle
tunnel (well, the North Carolina jungle, if you can imagine), and since
we mostly had the road to ourselves, we could slow as we needed, bend
and twist, lean and tuck, scraping our pegs and floorboards along the
way. At one
point there's a turn onto 66 that takes you about 350 degrees--no
lie--to the right. There's a stop sign first, so you're starting from
stillness, but then you're on a road of even more intense curves, but
this time we were following a logging truck who had obviously traveled
here before because he was barreling down the road in front of us.
Nothing good could come from that, so I was glad when we eventually
turned off, back on to 89, and eventually into Mount Airy. In those
moments I felt kinship with the adventurers of the world who set off on
long journeys to simply explore the terrain. Mine might only be four
days, and it might be my home state, but I've got to start somewhere.
Today North Carolina, tomorrow, well North Carolina!
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